EME35 vs DA35

[Cosmith]

Food for thought...

Here is a discussion regarding wrist pin/con rod play in DA50s:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...rod-print.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...update-ii.html

And in DLEs:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...se-normal.html

Seems like it isn't terribly uncommon.

Another thought, mine did it from new and I put a Bowman ring in from new so I can't help but wonder if my piston could be moving over the ring a bit and clunking. Anyone ever see this before? I can't for the life of me remember how tight the ring was but it certainly needs to move freely in the groove. Maybe it isn't wrist pin or con rod bearing play at all? The tip of my prop moves maybe a mm or two...it is very little, but just enough to produce a tick.

[tbrum]

Thanks for the links Cory.

Too funny Dean . I knew that was coming the second I read the pipe discussion.

My GP61 and 123 are super tight still after I bet 400 flights each. They've been run on pipes and stock 28deg timing. And there has been a lot of people shake their heads when they see how I beat on them (especially the 123)

For the record, the EME35 hasn't had an easy 60flights either, LOL. A switch is preferred over throttle

[bradleyban]

Gonna go lay a Brappfest on the EME-120 with RE2 pipes tomorrow!! Timing set at 26 deg. Super smooth no ticks..... Was the first one you got in Lorne!!

[-Snuts-]

See Trevor using pipes can wreck your motor! LOL hehe

Quietly.

[Super08]

I too am watching for the reply, and actions taken. Of most interest, why retard 6-8*?
-Snuts-

I have followed previous discussions on this with Pat, Jody, and the late Pe Rivers. They all said one must retard the ignition down to 24-25 degrees on a pipe due to the increased fuel/air charge from the pipe when set up right as well at the associated increase in heat. Both can lead to detonation and destruction of bearings, pistons and other components from pre-ignition.

[tbrum]

Okay guys..i will get new conrod bearings and drop the timing back on the EME35 and see. But I refuse to touch my GP's.. They are still mint at 400+ flights with stock 28deg timing. Have also never touched any 3W or DA either that have been on pipes. Only the ZDZ's

Cory... Yours is ticking also... Are you running a pipe?

[Buck Tracker]

Dale, good one! Liked That!

Trevor,
I wonder if it's just tuned pipes that need the timing retarded and cans are no worries, since they are not adding power or messing with the fuel/air charge??

[lorne@pro-rc.ca]

I would think it would be just pipes and not cans. I do check all motors I run for timing and do move them to 28 deg when on stock exhaust or cans and 26 on pipes to be safe.

[Cosmith]

Cory... Yours is ticking also... Are you running a pipe?

I'm running the hype can although mine probably has 15 or so flights on the stock muffler as well. I'm guessing I've got roughly 50 flights on it since I got it last fall, not being gentle by any means but I'm not capable of doling out the abuse you are just yet. Running a large tank as well, my flights are 15 - 20 minutes plus any running on the ground...enough runtime that one would expect that play to get worse if it was going to be an issue?

[tbrum]

Ya guys.. 3W55 on pipe, 3W110 on pipes, DA150 on pipes, DLE55 on pipes, DLE111 on pipes, BME58/116 on pipes, MVVS190 on pipes, DA50 on pipes, DA100L on pipes, GP61 on pipes, GP123 on pipes.. And the list goes on. All set at 28deg and no issues. Countless flights. No audible predetonation. No sloppy bearings. Only motors I have seen where timing was lowered from 28deg was the ZDZ160/180/90 due to audible predetonation. Still no sloppy bearings.

So not sure why the EME35 needs to go below 28deg to last if on pipes. Cory's on stock muffler and can has developed slop. Makes no sense to me, but I will change out the bearings and adjust to 24-26deg.

Perhaps it's the oil we use, LMAO. We need an oil thread