WOLF in SHEEPS CLOTHING

[BAMDFISHER]

STAB & ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY

The Stab on this airplane is glued in. You must remove the Elevators to get it into the slot in the fuselage. The flat barbed hinges hold very well in spite of not being glued in, so don't forget to glue both elevator sides!

I was not happy with the loose fit of the Stab into the fuselage, so I added a small balsa triangular stock to give added strength to this area. It nice that Pilot sends you a small piece of spare covering in each colour.

As this plane will be flown off of water, all of the servos that are exposed to any spray or mist are going to be WATERPROOF SERVOS. For the Elevator, I used Hitec 5646WP. they have 156 inch ounces of torque, more than enough. The building specs call for a minimum of 118 inch ounces.

As the servo leads travel though small openings inside the fuselage, I protected the wires with a braided wire loom. The servo lead and extension attachment was also covered with shrink tubing for extra strength, water resistance and so they could not ever vibrate loose.

These particular servos are a bit long to fit into the precut opening. I had to lengthen the slot for the servo by about 3mm.

After I had fitted the servo, I coated the edge of the opening with a clear glue to make this area completely waterproof.

[BAMDFISHER]

RUDDER INSTALLATION

As I am using a large engine in this airplane (EME 55 with Auto Start), I elected to mount the rudder servo at the tail to compensate for the projected nose heavy situation I might have.

Pilot have made a cut out for the servo in the back of the fuselage just for this situation. They do though, supply all of the necessary hardware for a typical Pull - Pull condition with the servo cut out in the middle of the inside of the fuselage.

I used my own hardware for this set up. Pilot does NOT supply the hardware for this installation situation.

Again I used a WATERPROOF SERVO, the same kind as used for the Elevators. Threading the servo extension lead through the fuselage was the hardest job in this assembly. I also sealed the servo to the fuselage with clear "GLUE" to stop any moisture from entering the back of the airplane.

[Bhughes]

Good I see there's a spot for a servo in the tail for the rudder. I've been looking at this too

[Bhughes]

Are the ailerons and flaps setup to work together like the decathlon. Or the flaps can only act as flaps

[BAMDFISHER]

Are the ailerons and flaps setup to work together like the decathlon. Or the flaps can only act as flaps

The flaps can be programmed to act as Flaps in the Normal tradition, coupled to act as Aerilons or to work in the Crow position. Each Flap and Aerilon has its own servo, so they can be programmed what ever way your transmitter allows. I'm using a Spektrum DX18.

[BAMDFISHER]

RECEIVER

I'm using a Gyro in this application because there is ALWAYS a breeze on my dock. Every afternoon and evening in the summer, I can count on a 5 to 15 mph wind. It's great for living as we never need air conditioning here (always 23C 72F in the summer) and there are no blackflies or mosquitoes.

Mounting the Gyro horizontally, took up room that normally would be used for the Receiver. This forced me to mount the Receiver vertically just behind the wing tube.

I made a mounting plate from a Carbon Fiber tray I got from SDS Hobbies and then attached a Industrial Strength Velcro strip. The back side of the Receiver is covered with the mating Velcro strip. As extra security I wrap around another Velcro Strap to hold everything in place.

The three remote satellite's are mounted just back of the wing opening.

This plane eats up Receiver Ports!

#1 Throttle
#2 Right Aerilon
#3 Right Elevator
#4 Rudder
#5 Left Flap
#6 Left Aerilon
#7 Right Flap
#8 Ignition Kill (Very Important with the plane in the water at the dock)
#9 Left Aerilon
#10 Choke (Again hard to do manually when the plane is in the water)
#11 Auto Engine Start
#12 Gyro Gain Control

[BAMDFISHER]

GYRO INSTALLATION

In this airplane I have chosen to use the PowerBox iGyro 3e.

I used a carbon fiber plate I obtained from SDS Hobbies and mounted it on 6 hard plumbing washers that I attached to a plywood tray.

The tray is screwed in so that if in the future I have to get to the rear float support, it won't be an impossible task.

To attach the iGyro to the receiver I used 8" Male to Male Heavy Duty 20 gauge extensions from Thunderbolt RC.

The wiring of the Gyro in between the Receiver and the Servos is a easy task. Teaching each servo the correct movement is quite simple once you have done it at least once.

[Bhughes]

The flaps can be programmed to act as Flaps in the Normal tradition, coupled to act as Aerilons or to work in the Crow position. Each Flap and Aerilon has its own servo, so they can be programmed what ever way your transmitter allows. I'm using a Spektrum DX18.

Nice full length Ailerons for some fun.

[BAMDFISHER]

Nice full length Ailerons for some fun.

The aerilons on this plane are huge. I'll be posting pictures of them when I have completed the wing assembly.

[Dwayne Butler]

GYRO INSTALLATION

In this airplane I have chosen to use the PowerBox iGyro 3e.

I used a carbon fiber plate I obtained from SDS Hobbies and mounted it on 6 hard plumbing washers that I attached to a plywood tray.

The tray is screwed in so that if in the future I have to get to the rear float support, it won't be an impossible task.

To attach the iGyro to the receiver I used 8" Male to Male Heavy Duty 20 gauge extensions from Thunderbolt RC.

The wiring of the Gyro in between the Receiver and the Servos is a easy task. Teaching each servo the correct movement is quite simple once you have done it at least once.

i think you find good setup, I am utilizing a GY48V as a part of Spitfire rudder in Heading Hold mode on takeofs time for me its works fine. I switch it off after in air. I found this double rate gyro so it has both HH mode and rate mode working.