CARF SPITFIRE ASSEMBLY and SCALE DETAILING

[BAMDFISHER]

Nice work Brian! She will be a looker when you finish it!!

Hope you get the health issues worked out soon.

Dramatic things happened last Tuesday and I was told I do not have any cancer in my liver, so they can now go ahead and treat me for my esophagus cancer.

My treatments should start next week so it will slow down my posting for about 6 to 8 weeks.

[-Rick-]

Hope it all goes well for you Brian.

[BAMDFISHER]

ELEVATOR TRIM TABS

For the Elevator Trim Tab components I purchased them from Nick Ziroli.

https://ziroligiantscaleplans.com/pl...cessories.html

The MONFORTON book gives every dimension that you would need to put the trim tabs in the proper location.

These are identical to the one used on the rudder.

The weight of the Elevator before starting was 324 grams and now it is 356 grams. This incudes the self etching primer paint made for plastic.

[BAMDFISHER]

ANTENNAE

Attaching the radio antennae to the fuselage left me with a challenge. I have seen too many war birds where the antennae has been broken off when the plane is turned upside down for assembly. I wanted to make mine EASILY removable for transportation.

I found some teardrop tubing used for struts that was just the right width. I also had an plastic insert for it that was shaped so the end would be able to pivot against the fuselage. I think this is old Byron material I had laying around.

I shaped the antennae per the dimensions in the MONFORTOM book. I added a second piece of the shaped tubing to the inside of the fuselage and place the two piece base around the tubing that is inside the fuselage. The plastic insert is glued to the antennae and the remainder of the insert is now able to be forced into the fuselage tubing.

It is a very difficult part to assemble or remove so I have NO worries that it will be lost during flight.

[tbrum]

Congrats on the news Brian! Was awesome to have a visit with you and WOW... what a beautiful house and property you have. One of the best views of Georgian Bay I have ever seen. Incredible.

[Machzx]

Good luck Brian

[BAMDFISHER]

PITOT TUBE

As with the antennae, I wanted to make the Pitot removable from the wing to make it easier for storage.

The Pitot tube has 3 main sections, the female tube in the wing, the male attachment plug and the top part that is shaped like the Pitot tube on the real plane.

The dimensions of the Pitot tube and its location can be found in the Monforton book on page, 7.52.

Again I used Locktite Epoxy to hold the female tube to the inside of the wing.

[BAMDFISHER]

AERILON CONTROL INSTALLATION

Well I got through my first chemo and radiation treatment and I feel great. No sickness or tiredness yet.

I'm not a fan of two things that Carf wants you to do in mounting the aerilon servos.

First I do not like the Glass Fiber control horns. I had one break on my Carf 330SC when I accidentally hit the outside horn on my elevator. I replaced it with the Hanger 9 HAN 3615 Control horn and this system has worked great for me since. On my Krill after many flights I had the hole between the two fiber horns slightly elongate from the 4-40 bolt going through. This lead to some slop. So again I replaced it with a Hanger 9 Control Horn.

BUT I did follow exactly where Carf tells you to install the horns (1 inch in sideways and 1/2 inch down). There is a supporting block there that you drill through and it gives a lot of rigidity to the control horn assembly. I drilled the hole slightly undersize then tapped the wood for a 10-32 bolt. I used Locktite epoxy to hold it in place. The Philips flat head is countersunk and I will fill it in prior to painting and it will not bee seen.

I also was not a fan of the way the servo is buried deep into the top underside of the wing. This eliminates only 1/2 of the control linkage and does hide the control arm. But it puts it at a awkward angle for precise adjustment. On watching many videos of this plane flying, you can still see the control horns and part of the linkage, so I opted to not care that servo arm, the whole linkage and control horns would be seen.

I used the EXACT same servo hatches that came from my crashed Carf Extra 330sc. They still had the metal servo holders still attached.

I cut the servo hatch with my new HOT KNIFE. What a tool. as it does such an exacting job. I just lay a flexible ruler against the outside of the line and slowly cut away. Afterwards I followed Carf's advice and added the strengtheners between the upper and lower wing skins.

I'm using Savox 2270 Brushless servos for both aerilons.

Total weight for the Aerilon system, (less glue and balsa supports) 128 grams

[itizme]

That is great news!!
Keep up the good build

[BAMDFISHER]

FLAP INSTALLATION

Similar to the aerilons, I went my own way. Reading several other builds on this Carf plane, it is apparent that it's very hard to get a total of 85 degrees deflection using the Carf method of completely hiding the control arm inside the wing.

I put the Flap control arm and the holding plate for the servo underneath the Oil Cooler and on the other wing under the Radiator. In this way very little is exposed of the control mechanism for the movement of the flap.

But since there is a lot of load against the flap when it is fully deployed, I added some extra support on the inside. All of this is held together with Locktite Epoxy glue. I purchased some control horns from SDS Hobbies and these were the parts that came with it. I drilled out the black nylon base to accept my own Hanger 9 10-32 bolt and clevis. The SDS bolt was only 3mm that I did not think was strong enough.

The weight for the parts for the flap system was 108 grams.