EME35 vs DA35

[tbrum]

I agree Jack.. No such thing as running a motor in. Tune it and fly the snot out of it. Our gas engines are extremely low tech and no different than a chainsaw or weedwacker.

I'm with Lorne or Jack...likely a bad ignition. Box it up and send it back.

My EME35 with the walbro carb runs so mint. Had it out yesterday again. One of the smoothest midranges I've had and it really freaks people out when I tell them it's on a pipe, LOL. Totally destroys this mith that pipes will screw up midrange. The Planebender Smoothpipe is a work of art...both performance and sound.

[Super08]

Try flying it without the cowl and see if it still does it.

[Cosmith]

Hey guys, first of all I appreciate all the input, thanks for that!

No such a thing as run in time. Tune them like they should be tuned and fly the he!! Out of them.

I'm totally on your side, and DA recommends the same. That's why I'm running 40:1 Redline from the get go and trying to get a good tune for performance. Unfortunately now I'm just trying to get a tune that will keep it running. Does yours drop to a really low idle when you come off the throttle hard? What do you set your idle at to fly?

Cory, I agree, could be ignition. A friend had a bad da ignition and it made the servos jump around on the ibec just like yours did. It quit working all together several flights later.

The other thing I would try is lean the bottom end a little and then start with the top end rich for sure. (richen h needle 3/4 turn).
The top end sounds like it might be lean but who knows. Remember as the engine warms up you will loose some rpm so wait until it is warm before you start tuning for max rpm from this rich state.

let us know what you find

Hey Lorne, my servos stopped jumping around when I tightened the plug cap. Right now it is totally acting like the high end is getting leaner the longer it runs, which makes one think it is getting hot, but according to my hand and thermometer it isn't overheating at all. I think I've got the high speed set as rich as it will go, another 3/4 of a turn out won't change my top end rpm at all believe it or not. However any tiny change to the low speed makes a large difference. I'm half tempted to rip the carb apart to make sure there isn't some crud in there...based on the symptoms it's all I can think of. I know DA wouldn't like that, but I don't feel like being without my plane for a week or two to send it back to them. Like I said before, I appreciate the fact that they offer good customer service, but I don't want to send it back for something I can do myself with very little down time.

I agree Jack.. No such thing as running a motor in. Tune it and fly the snot out of it. Our gas engines are extremely low tech and no different than a chainsaw or weedwacker.

I'm with Lorne or Jack...likely a bad ignition. Box it up and send it back.

My EME35 with the walbro carb runs so mint. Had it out yesterday again. One of the smoothest midranges I've had and it really freaks people out when I tell them it's on a pipe, LOL. Totally destroys this mith that pipes will screw up midrange. The Planebender Smoothpipe is a work of art...both performance and sound.

Yep, totally agree. I believe it takes a bit of run in to seat the ring, but like any other engine that happens relatively fast. According to DA these engines have been run at full throttle on a stand before they are even shipped...no benefit to us babying them after we get them at that point. At this point, if I have to go to the trouble of taking it off and shipping it out plus the down time that comes with that then I'll sell it when I get it back. I got one good flight out of it yesterday, so hopefully next time I fly it runs just like that.

Interesting story, just got a brand new Stihl weedwacker and I asked the store owner about break in. He said running anymore than the 50:1 Stihl recommends could actually damage the engine because "thickening" the fuel can cause it to run lean. If I remember correctly all they recommend is to avoid prolonged full throttle for the first little while...that makes sense to me, more friction between ring and cylinder = more heat. Aside from that, like you said Trevor, no magic in these little engines, there are really only a few moving parts.

Try flying it without the cowl and see if it still does it.

I did run it this way for the first couple tanks and had no problems, but it also had the restrictive tips on the muffler. I don't think in cowl pressure is an issue because that should richen it. So maybe it is heat, but I have no indication that it is running hot. The whole bottom of my cowl is open as is the top of the motor box and the pipe tunnel with a large vent at the back of the fuse like you would do for an electric. Almost the entire head is in the airflow and I have one of the upper cosmetic inlets blocked off, the other one is where I get my choke rod.

I'm going to fly it a bit more and see what happens. If it keeps being problematic then I just have to decide if my next step is to send it back to DA or try a complete tear down of the carb first. At this point, the disappointing thing is that it is going to be a long while before I'm confident flying this engine...a few issues plus a dead stick when I had no issues and no dead sticks on my last engine. Being relatively new to flying, it feels like I've taken a few steps backwards...not willing to start banging off pop tops, flat spins, etc because I'm too worried I'll have another dead stick.

[jeweler]

Cory, I truly think you have had a bad plug cap from the start, especially if you're using a zip tie to hold it on. Give them a call tomorrow and they will likely send out a new ignition.

[Nev]

I made the carb mod with film can on a DL30 and it made a world or difference. My eme 35 after only 10 tanks is running really well. Transition is remarkably smooth and my carb is very close to my fuse engine box hole. I did not enlarge the hole and the cowl is a pretty tight fit except for air flow around the cylinder head and towards the underside. I did have a faulty hall sensor on my engine when I got it and it would cause missing most noticeable around 3000 rpm. Thanks to Lorne's quick diagnosis from a short video a new hall sensor fixed the problem. I am running 91 gas with 32:1 penzoil 2s oil. Plan to stick with it, why change a good thing. I have been running a 20x6 but I am about to try a 20x8 and 19x10. All I can say is for the price of the EME and given the reliable performance I have seen with mine its a hard to beat package in my opinion.

[jeweler]

I'll bet as time has gone on the inards of the cap are getting messed up......just a thought.

[jeweler]

Cory my carb is very close the engine box as well and no issues with tuning.

[Cosmith]

Cory, I truly think you have had a bad plug cap from the start, especially if you're using a zip tie to hold it on. Give them a call tomorrow and they will likely send out a new ignition.

Hey Jacques, I think the cap is fine. Once I shrunk down the steel ring/clip all the radio interference went away. I just threw a zip tie on it this last time to rule it out as a problem. I want to fly it again with the needle settings on it now, if it runs good for a couple flights then I think I can rule out the ignition as a problem.

What are you running your idle at to fly? I'm scared to do anything like a pop top where you come off the throttle hard because of the way the idle drops.

I made the carb mod with film can on a DL30 and it made a world or difference. My eme 35 after only 10 tanks is running really well. Transition is remarkably smooth and my carb is very close to my fuse engine box hole. I did not enlarge the hole and the cowl is a pretty tight fit except for air flow around the cylinder head and towards the underside. I did have a faulty hall sensor on my engine when I got it and it would cause missing most noticeable around 3000 rpm. Thanks to Lorne's quick diagnosis from a short video a new hall sensor fixed the problem. I am running 91 gas with 32:1 penzoil 2s oil. Plan to stick with it, why change a good thing. I have been running a 20x6 but I am about to try a 20x8 and 19x10. All I can say is for the price of the EME and given the reliable performance I have seen with mine its a hard to beat package in my opinion.

Hey Nev, I think the film can mod is great if you need it, but with my setup I don't see any benefit. The pressure in the fuse will be exactly the same as the pressure in the cowl, they are pretty much open to one another. High cowl pressure won't cause a lean condition either, which is what I'm getting.

I do agree however that the EME35 is a great little engine. Mine runs like a top, the only 'problem' is a bit of mid range burble and slower transition than the little DA. That said, those aren't really problems, just what you'd expect with most gassers. For all I know putting the Walbro carb on mine could improve both those little issues.

[Machzx]

I purchased an aero plus Corvus with a 35 eme
It flys like a big plane crazy power
Was Andys man it fun

[Banshee]

Cosmith,

Have I got a deal for you. I will offer an EME 35 with less than 20 flights and a messed up ignition. Also, I will through in a new Walbro Carb and a replacement ignition to sweeten the deal. All this for your Crappy DA35. I will pay the shipping and the agreed exchange price. The look on my sons face when his engine would not start today a fun fly spoke volumes to me.