My First Scratch build

[Vettster]

So all that's left from the old list is to glue the wing tips on. Will need to attach wings first.. but that part is being held off for the ASSEMBLY portion of this build.

The engine nacelle is curing as we speak so it is in the mold. Once out of the mold I will install and re work the spar location on the stabs later today. Then I will have to modify the Stab molds. Easy enough.

Need to add two small half formers in the hull to hold the fuel tank elevated and to hold up some ancillary components.

Need to make battery trays. Will wait to see how bad the CG is off. Might make em out of 1/4 ply for the weight.

I screwed up again and forgot to add a servo hatch for the Rudder in the Rudder mold Not a big deal.. will get to that later.

So other than the above... Does this mean Im done with the construction??

[Vettster]

Onto the stabs..

[Vettster]

Just waiting for the glue to set. I use Hysol the most followed by aeroworks Epoxy finishing resin with additives(cabicil and fiber strands) and lastly SIX 10 thickened epoxy from west systems. I prefer the Hysol cause we all know of its super strength and adherence abilities. E-20HP Hysol sets up in a couple of hours and is hard in about 4 hrs. Fully cured in 24.

[RC_MAN]

Good work Trevor. Did you put in any right thrust and possible up or down thrust firewall adjustment capability. I think you will need some.

[Vettster]

Thanks Pete.. I researched rear mounted props and it says that when the prop is at the back like it is.. No right or left thrust is required. As for pitch.. after chatting with Laddie Mikulasko the designer of these high engine pod planes.. He said that the engine pod needs to be pointed down about 1.5 to 2* So yes the pod is positioned to point down towards the nose about 2* I am not going to glue the firewall on, but rather bolt it on so I can adjust it at the field if required. The down is to counter the high engine and the thrust is aimed more towards the CG rather than over it. Hope that makes sense.

[itizme]

Almost to the point of being able to weight the air frame, or maybe you are. Well done!

[Vettster]

Thanks Steve.. it's around 12-13 lbs as is. I'll check again when all the parts are on.

Wing tips installed.. hatch and canopy trimmed and dry fitted.

[Dennis 9412]

Looking good Trev, Can"t wait for the maiden video!!

Regards,

Dennis

[Vettster]

Thanks Dennis

Happy New Year Everyone!

Just compiling some assembly instructions for now. I will post a more organized assembly thread later. Its presumed that anyone purchasing this kit will already have the required building skills/tools/materials needed to complete this model so I wont go into great detail as to "How To" but rather what is required.

Sand the canopy and hatch down to the line. Dry fit several times for the best fit.

Wing tips. Install 2 dowels as shown, then glue on with hysol. Building tip.. apply slow set CA to dowels on the tips before inserting into wing. The CA will cure much faster than the hysol holding it in position till cured. Place masking tape on both sides of seam before gluing and remove after glue has squeezed out for a clean joint.

Install formers 5/6/7/8/9. The formers should not be pressed into place! Sand down so that they just touch. Use CA to tack into place then hysol a bead all around. All #s on the formers face towards the nose.

More to follow..

[Vettster]

Ensure the is a 1/8 gap at the top of the rudder to allow full movent, and a 1/16 gap along the hinge line.
The rudder will take much abuse so I suggest 2 pins at the bottom.
For pin location...Measure up from the bottom of the vertical stab. 1cm, 3cm,12cm and 22cm or higher.


I like to use a knereled bit to make the initial holes. I find drill bits to be to aggressive and can damage the fiberglass.

I got the bits from Banggood for 5 bucks and free shipping.. or was free shipping till that idiot Trudeau F'ed it all up!